Saribung Peak

The Phu Mustang trek allows you to climb the Saribung Peak summit from the Saribung pass. A trip to another era, to another world. The Tibetan culture and tradition of Mustang are full of monasteries. What is also surprising at the beginning of the trek is these oases of greenery in the middle of an arid and desert landscape. The route modified since the construction of the road between Nepal and Tibet avoids vehicles and especially dust. To reach Lo Manthang, the capital of Mustang, the gradual rise in altitude allows good acclimatization. From Lo Manthang landscape change. Desert spaces as far as the eye can see, more lodge, altitudes of 5000 m with Dhaulagiri, Annapurna or Dolpo below.

Then the course becomes engaged especially if the bad weather is manifested. When we walk on the glacier we go along the penitents of ice on a path without problems and little steep. The altitude camps are well placed with water nearby and especially a difference in height between the small camps for good acclimatization to the altitude.
On the day of the ascent, a very early departure at 3:30 in the morning makes it possible to reach the Saribung pass around 6 am at sunrise. The trail on the glacier is not obvious at night so you need a good guide who knows the route.

On the other hand, once arrived at the neck of the Saribung the summit seems very close and the course obvious. It takes about 2 to 3 hours to reach the top of the pass. The ascent of the summit is optional. Then very long descent to reach the first camp where there is water. The beginning of the descent on the glacial part can be delicate if there is ice and according to the state of the crevices of the glacier. A very long day. Return by Phu Valley and Naar Phedi with a night at the monastery.

Difficulty climbing the Saribung peak

There is no particular technical difficulty for the ascent of Saribung in good conditions. The slopes do not exceed 30 ° and are wide. Access to the Saribung pass comes from the last camp of 5750 m installed on the moraine by a glacier which has some crevasses. In addition, this access is night so you must have a guide who knows the road. It is better to make contact. Finally, the return is very long because the camp is installed at the bottom of the glacier on the Phu Valley in a place where there is water.

Similarly, the descent of the glacier may have to be organized according to the state of the glacier. In conclusion, the difficulty of this climb is especially very big between the departure of the camp towards 3:30 and the arrival to the following camp after making the ascent which requires between 10:00 and 13:00. The route are very busy in case of bad weather especially snowfall.

Technical material for Saribung Peak

• Cleats set on your shoes before departure.
• sling
• An ice ax
• 1 carabiner, 1 strap, an ice pin