Chulu West


Trip Facts

Duration :

Difficulty Level : 1

Group Size :

Maximum Altitude :

Chulu West 6420 m is located in the Annapurna Valley on the edge of Mustang. His ascent requires a base camp at 4800 m as well as a camp of altitude towards 5500 m.

Usually for the ascent of Chulu West one starts from the bottom of the Annapurnas valley to join Manang and Ledar starting point of the climb to the base camp. The problem is that arrived at CB we never exceeded the altitude of the CB and even less slept at this altitude. In addition, the following 2 days require an overnight stay at 5500 m and the ascent of the summit at 6480 m.

Although for access to Ledar we go through the Kangla La at 5200 m or that we make a climb to Lake Tilicho 4800 m from Manang we do not sleep at these altitudes.

For a better acclimatization to the altitude we propose a departure of Jomson.

This allows us to respect differences in height differences between 2 consecutive nights of about 500 m to spend 2 nights above 4800 m and to have reached 2 times the altitude of 5400 m at Thorong Pass. We thus arrive at the well-acclimated CB for the future.

Then the climb to the camp at 5500 m does not pose a problem of acclimatization.

 

From the CB the start is clearly visible, we go up a scree and then from a pass at 5200 m easy rocks lead to two small projections equipped with ropes fixed on 150 m. We arrive on a plateau where we set up the camp. Beautiful view of the Mustang and the entire chain of Annapurnas.

 

For the ascent start very early between 1 and 3 am because the day is long over 1000 m of altitude to reach the summit of Chulu West at 6420 m. We start on a moraine that leads us to 2 snow slopes of about 40 ° on 100 and 50 m respectively before continuing by a ridge of snow and reach a large plateau.

 

The end of the climb takes place on a ridge to the summit where there is little room.

Difficulty climbing Chulu West

There is no particular technical difficulty for the climb of Chulu West in good conditions. The slopes do not exceed 40 ° and are short.

Access to the camp at 5500 m requires the installation of fixed ropes for 2 passages over approximately 150 m.

On the day of the ascent there are 2 slopes inclined at 40 ° on 100 and 50 m respectively.

The rest of the progression is globally on a slightly cracked glacier.

At the descent from the camp at 5500 m, fixed rope passes can be rappelled.

It is better to do only one camp of altitude after the base camp and to leave very early in the morning the day of the ascent for the summit. 2 camps complicate the logistics, pose problem in case of bad weather and a night in a camp 2 to about 5800 m increases the risks related to the sickness of the mountains.

Personal technical equipment for the ascent of Chulu West

  • Cleats set before departure
  • Harness, 2 carabiners, 1 pin, 2 straps
  • 1 ax, 1 jumar, 1 descender
  • Helmet
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Chulu West 6420 m

  • Duration 22 days
  • Alti max 6420 m
  • Difficulty small rocky passage to go up to camp 1 and slopes of snow at 40 ° on 100 m.
  • Periods April-May and October-November

Trip Itinerary

day Chulu West steps  night duration  deniv +  

deniv –

 

 electricity  phone (*)  accommodation
1 arrival Kathmandu hotel transfer 1400
2 1 day Kathmandu
3 Bus direction Pokhara 950 6h
4 Plane Jomson trek Kagbeni 2800 30 mn + 5h 700 600 230 Wireless lodge
5 Muktinath 3650 5h 850 50 230 Wireless lodge
6 Acclimatization Muktinath 3650
7 Chhangur 4200 3h 500 0 solar mobile lodge
8 Camp 4800 or 4950 m depending on conditions 4950 4h 700 0 no no attempted
9 Dharamsala 5050 5h 400 300 solar attempted
10 Ledar 4200 3h 800 0 solar Wireless lodge
11 BC Chulu West 4800 4h 600 0 no no attempted
12 High camp 5520 6h 750 0 no no attempted
13 Summit Chulu West 6420 – High camp 5520 10am 1050 1050 no no attempted
14 Ledar 4200 6h 0 1350 solar Wireless lodge
15 Manang 3590 4h 0 600 230 Wireless lodge
16 Rest Manang 3500
17 Upper pisang 3300 6h 400 600 230 Wireless lodge
18 Timang 2610 6h 200 900 230 Wireless lodge
19 Jagat 1450 7h 200 1300 230 Wireless lodge
20 4×4 and mini bus Kathmandu 1400 2h30 + 6h
21 1 day Kathmandu
22 Departure

 

Service Includes

Hotel-airport transport A / R

4 nights in Kathmandu hotel with breakfast

1 sherpa climbing for 2/3 climbers

The team of porters

Carrier equipment,

Sherpa equipment

Food during the trek (3 meals a day)

Overnights in lodges

Entrance fees in Annapurna Park

Rights (Royalties) of Peak Summit Chulu West

Altitude collective equipment (ropes, tents, etc.)

CB Chulu Tents and North Face Tents

Foam mattress for nights in tents

Insurance for the Nepalese team

Hyperbaric chamber

Satellite phone for rescue with 30 minutes of com

Garbage Deposit (deposit for garbage)

Mini bus between Kathmandu and Pokhara

Plane between Pokhara and Jomson

4×4 between Jagat and Besisahar

Mini bus between Besisahar and Kathmandu

End of trek meal offered by the agency

Service Excludes

Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu

Personal Insurance, Repatriation Assistance

Hot showers in the lodges (about 2 Euros)

Telephone, alcoholic drinks, soda, bottled water and hot water in the lodges

Tips to the Nepalese team

The return flight Paris-Kathmandu

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