Difficulty Level : 1
Group Size :
Maximum Altitude :
Chulu West 6420 m is located in the Annapurna Valley on the edge of Mustang. His ascent requires a base camp at 4800 m as well as a camp of altitude towards 5500 m.
Usually for the ascent of Chulu West, one starts from the bottom of the Annapurnas valley to join Manang and Ledar starting point of the climb to the base camp. The problem is that arrived at CB we never exceeded the altitude of the CB and even less slept at this altitude. In addition, the following 2 days require an overnight stay at 5500 m and the ascent of the summit at 6480 m.
Although for access to Ledar we go through the Kangla La at 5200 m or that we make a climb to Lake Tilicho 4800 m from Manang we do not sleep at these altitudes.
For a better acclimatization to the altitude, we propose a departure of Jomson.
This allows us to respect differences in height differences between 2 consecutive nights of about 500 m to spend 2 nights above 4800 m and to have reached 2 times the altitude of 5400 m at Thorong Pass. We thus arrive at the well-acclimated CB for the future.
Then the climb to the camp at 5500 m does not pose a problem of acclimatization.
From the CB the start is clearly visible, we go up a screen and then from a pass at 5200 m easy rocks lead to two small projections equipped with ropes fixed on 150 m. We arrive on a plateau where we set up the camp. Beautiful view of the Mustang and the entire chain of Annapurnas.
For the ascent start very early between 1 and 3 am because the day is long over 1000 m of altitude to reach the summit of Chulu West at 6420 m. We start on a moraine that leads us to 2 snow slopes of about 40 ° on 100 and 50 m respectively before continuing by a ridge of snow and reaches a large plateau.
The end of the climb takes place on a ridge to the summit where there is little room.
Difficulty climbing Chulu West
There is no particular technical difficulty for the climb of Chulu West in good conditions. The slopes do not exceed 40 ° and are short.
Access to the camp at 5500 m requires the installation of fixed ropes for 2 passages over approximately 150 m.
On the day of the ascent, there are 2 slopes inclined at 40 ° on 100 and 50 m respectively.
The rest of the progression is globally on a slightly cracked glacier.
At the descent from the camp at 5500 m, fixed rope passes can be rappelled.
It is better to do only one camp of altitude after the base camp and to leave very early in the morning the day of the ascent for the summit. 2 camps complicate the logistics, pose a problem in case of bad weather and a night in a camp 2 to about 5800 m increases the risks related to the sickness of the mountains.
Personal technical equipment for the ascent of Chulu West
- Cleats set before departure
- Harness, 2 carabiners, 1 pin, 2 straps
- 1 ax, 1 jumar, 1 Descender
Chulu West 6420 m
- Duration 22 days
- Alti max 6420 m
- Difficulty small rocky passage to go up to camp 1 and slopes of snow at 40 ° on 100 m.
- Periods April-May and October-November
|day||Chulu West steps||night||duration||deniv +||
|1||arrival Kathmandu hotel transfer||1400|
|2||1 day Kathmandu|
|3||Bus direction Pokhara||950||6h|
|4||Plane Jomson trek Kagbeni||2800||30 mn + 5h||700||600||230||Wireless||lodge|
|8||Camp 4800 or 4950 m depending on conditions||4950||4h||700||0||no||no||attempted|
|11||BC Chulu West||4800||4h||600||0||no||no||attempted|
|13||Summit Chulu West 6420 – High camp||5520||10am||1050||1050||no||no||attempted|
|20||4×4 and mini bus Kathmandu||1400||2h30 + 6h|
|21||1 day Kathmandu|
Hotel-airport transport A / R
4 nights in Kathmandu hotel with breakfast
1 sherpa climbing for 2/3 climbers
The team of porters
Food during the trek (3 meals a day)
Overnights in lodges
Entrance fees in Annapurna Park
Rights (Royalties) of Peak Summit Chulu West
Altitude collective equipment (ropes, tents, etc.)
CB Chulu Tents and North Face Tents
Foam mattress for nights in tents
Insurance for the Nepalese team
Satellite phone for rescue with 30 minutes of com
Garbage Deposit (deposit for garbage)
Mini bus between Kathmandu and Pokhara
Plane between Pokhara and Jomson
4×4 between Jagat and Besisahar
Mini bus between Besisahar and Kathmandu
End of trek meal offered by the agency
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
Personal Insurance, Repatriation Assistance
Hot showers in the lodges (about 2 Euros)
Telephone, alcoholic drinks, soda, bottled water and hot water in the lodges
Tips to the Nepalese team
The return flight Paris-Kathmandu