Information for an expedition
Life on an expedition:
it's both a personal experience and a group experience. You have to know how to manage and manage others. The human factor is very important for the experience to run smoothly. The conditions of isolation, hardiness, fatigue, the hostile environment make everything is multiplied compared to our usual environment. In short, we must be vigilant for ourselves and others, show tolerance, respect for Sherpas, cooks and porters and participate in the life of the group. Also know that an experience is a lot of waiting to acclimatize and to have the right conditions to progress.
Transport of loads :
During the expedition you will have to wear your personal material but also help the sherpas to transport the collective material. You will also have to help in repatriating the charges to the base camp. The day of the final climb you will only have to carry a small bag with your personal belongings.
There is 1 Sherpa altitude for 2 climbers for all expeditions except at Everest.
For Everest whatever the slope (Nepal or Tibet) there is 1 Sherpa altitude per climber.
Technical level for an expedition :
All expeditions are very high mountain glacier routes. Real mountaineering skills and a very good physical condition are essential. It is necessary to be able to cling to the ascent and descent in slopes whose inclination is between 40 ° and 50 °.
You must be able to ride with the jumar, descend with a descender, self-assemble at the relay, etc. You must be equipped with all your mountaineering equipment and know how to use it: metal cleats set on your shoes, ice ax, shoulder harness, 2 ice pins, 2 self closing safety carabiners, jumar, descender, cord, mountain helmet necessary, frontal, a survival blanket, etc. In addition to the technical problems, do not neglect - on days of ascent you will already have many days of walking at altitude, so fatigue accumulated - from October and all November it is cold or very cold, - finally these climbs take place at very high altitude.
As training, it is highly recommended to have a race such as crossing the 3 Mont Blanc about 15 days before the start and be comfortable in this race. For an 8000 m It is advisable to have already participated in an expedition on a summit of 6000 m or 7000 m - thank you to indicate us the experiment (s) that you have of the high altitude.
For Everest have already made a peak of 8000 m (Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Shishapangma, Gasherbrum ...).
This is mandatory by the Chinese side. The regulation listed China imposes to have reached a peak of 8000 m before attempting the Everest side Tibet.
The tip is not an obligation, it is left to your appreciation.
◘ For the 'off-climb' part of your expedition it is usual to leave between 20 and 30 euros per porter.
For Sherpas, cooks, etc. who stay with you at base camp and for a 30-day expedition:
- Sirdar 80 to 100 euros
- Sherpas 70 to 80 euros
- cooks 70 to 80 euros
◘ For the climbing part of your trip if with your Sherpas you have reached the summit or you have climbed to the last camp of the expedition it is usual to give Sherpas summit bonus:
for a peak of 7000 m and for Ama Dablam 250 euros per person.
for a peak of 8000 m (excluding Everest) 400 euros per person.
These amounts are the tips offered by the group (not per participant).
We advise you to hand yourself in person directly to porters, cooks and Sherpas tip for example, the penultimate day of the expedition during the evening meal together taking a "pot".
Indeed, the porters or even the cook and his help do not necessarily come with you on Kathmandu. They return with the equipment by bus or they live in the area and do not return to Kathmandu, all this to say that it is better to give tips on the last day or better the day before the end of the experience and not not in Kathmandu.
No refund if you finish in fewer days than expected even if there is no success of the summit for an expedition and you decide to give up. In these cases the number of nights of hotel supported by the agency remains the one indicated on your trip.
Check that your insurance covers search, rescue, repatriation and medical expenses for Nepal and Tibet without altitude restrictions.
Make sure your passport is valid for another 6 months after your departure date from Nepal.
For the simplest visa and the cheapest is to take it when arriving at Kathmandu airport or online.
There is no compulsory vaccination for Nepal. However, being up to date with vaccinations is preferable.
Make sure you have sent us a photocopy of your passport and the registration form with the details of your insurance.
For expeditions to heights of more than 7000 m we must send a copy of the medical certificate issued by a doctor stating that you are able to perform this type of ascent.
See also "Not included in the shipping tariff"