Trip Facts

Duration :

Difficulty Level : 1

Group Size :

Maximum Altitude :

Only summit of more than 8000 m located entirely in Tibet.
Access from Kathmandu to the Chinese base camp at 5000 m is by 4×4 by the road of Friendship.
Then with the Yaks we go up to the base camp of the expedition at 5700 m.
We will set up 3 altitude camps for the ascent.
Then camp 3 at the top is a big slope with some passages at 40 ° but overall we progress near the edge of the left bank.
Depending on the conditions, it is possible to install a camp 4 around 7400 m.
This summit can be done on skis.

advanced base camp at 5900 m for material removal and acclimatization. It is located at the end of the moraine before crossing the penitents.

camp 1 at 6300 m good flat location. We cross the penitents (quite painful) and we go up a slope on 300 m to reach a plateau where we install the camp 1.

camp 2 at 6700 m also a good location. From camp 2 we go up the slope that leads to the plateau where we install C3.

From C2 it is a long, very sloping plateau that leads to C3.

we can make a camp 4 from the ridge to 7400 m but the gain is not interesting because at C4 there is a lot of wind and the night will be even harder than at C3. So better to leave 2 hours earlier than C3.

For the summit during an expedition on D-Day we tried 2 solutions:

– a group left from C3 at 1 am: very very cold – peak reached

– another group left at 6 o’clock in the morning he found the sun coming out on the ridge (see small clip at the top of this page) – summit also reached – but much less cold and view on the trays of Tibet during all the climb.


Trip Itinerary

Days 1 and 3 Kathmandu and departure by bus. Direction the Chinese border.
Days 4 and 5 Nyalam at 3800 m where we will do 1 day of acclimatization.
Days 6 and 7 Direction in 4X4 in Tingri (acclimatization 1 day) and the Chinese base camp at 5000 m and a day of acclimatization.
Day 8 Mounted on foot and with the yaks at the Shisha base camp at 5700 m.
Days 9 to 34 Climb CB – acclimatization equipment camps altitude – Ascension – moving.
Days 35 to 38 Return Kathmandu.

Service Includes

4 nights in Kathmandu hotel with breakfast

1cook and his cooks helpers

1 altitude sherpa with equipment for 2 clients and 1 sirdar who is one of the altitude Sherpas

Hyper bar cabinet,

A satellite phone

Bus and 4X4 between Kathmandu and CB Chinese A / R and Kathmandu

The transport of loads in the CB

Food at base camp and in high altitude camps

Generator set for bass camp just for lights and to charge the batteries

The tents of the base camp and the camps of altitude

Insurance for the Nepalese team.

Hotel-airport transportation

The royalties of the summit, Permit of ascension, Chinese license including for the local team

The Liaison Officer and his equipment

End of experience pot taken together in Kathmandu.

The Liaison Officer and his equipment

Service Excludes

Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu

Repatriation relief insurance

Your mountain gear (harness, crampons, sleeping bags, etc.) Race food

Bonus summit for Sherpas (left at your initiative)

Extra Sherpa see

Airport taxes and visas Frees(Nepal-China)

Telephone, walkie-talkie, alcoholic drinks and soda

The plane A / R Paris

meals lunch and dinner in Kathmandu

The double entry visa

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