Difficulty Level : 1
Group Size :
Maximum Altitude :
The Makalu 2 is a 7000 m “span”. 4 camps of altitude are necessary and the camp 4 is installed at 7300 m with the neck of Makalu the Makalu.
Until camp C4 the route is the same as that of the ascent of Makalu.
From C4 to 7300 m in one day we reach the summit of Makalu 2 at 7678 m. The duration of this expedition is 36 days it is longer than for the others 7000 m because the last camp is at 7300 m is at the altitude of the summit of “classics 7000.”
This expedition in its logistics is closer to a peak of 8000 m (3 or 4 camp camps altitude and last camp at 7300 m.
The Makalu 2 brings a very good experience for those who wish to “know” aloft before climbing a summit of 8000 m.
Thanks to François Marsigny for his photos taken during the ascent of Makalu in the spring of 2008 without oxygen.
In recent years the rise of Makalu 2 as that of Makalu 1 is often realized in the spring.
Indeed, we can see that the monsoon that used to end at the beginning of September has a tendency today to extend until the end of September or beginning of October, making on the one hand the difficult approach and on the other hand bringing bad conditions at altitude.
More generally, all areas of eastern Nepal (from Everest to Kangchenjunga) are becoming more accessible for spring expeditions. Moreover, today, Nepal’s ascent of Everest is almost entirely in the spring.
Finally, the track from Tumlingtar can go to Num in 4×4. But impossible to predict if this will be possible because when it rains it is not generally possible.
The base camp is located at 5400 m.
C1 or advanced base camp at 5800 m .
It may be wise to install an advanced base camp at 5800 m.
This camp located at the start of the glacier avoids the long walk from the BC. By cons, he is high.
Camp 2 at 6300 m .
From C1 we go up the glacier which is flat at the beginning. Then one passes a small wall of ice about 40 m to take foot on the glacier which leads to C2.
Camp 3 to 6700 m.
The location of Camp 3 is a problem if the conditions are avalanche. Indeed, flows can be triggered in the corridor of Makalu La.
But not doing it imposes a too long step to climb to the C4.
Plus, it’s really not great for acclimation.
So to see on the spot according to the conditions. Between C2 and C3 presence of crevices.
Camp 4 at 7300 m .
The climb to C4 since C3 is done in mixed. In Makalu The c. 7300 m is camp 4.
From C3 and before the corridor descending from Makalu The presence of large crevasses.
Camp 4 is at the Makalu pass at 7300 m.
It is a very windy and cold place. The climb to camp 4 is done globally first on slopes of snow to then arrive in a mixed corridor that leads to camp 4.
|DAY||MAKALU EXPEDITION 2||DURATION||ALTITUDE|
|1||arrival Kathmandu hotel transfer|
|2||a day in Kathmandu|
|3||Tumlingtar flight direction||500m|
|4||Khadbhar||4 hours||1000 m|
|8||Tashi Gaon||5 hours||2000m|
|11||Nhe Kharka||6 hours||3000m|
|13||Makalu Base Camp Hilary||5 hours||4800m|
|14||Hilary base camp rest||4 hours||5200m|
|15||Makalu Base Camp||7 hours||5400m|
|16||Acclimatization BC Makalu||5400 m|
|17 to 27||climbing period|
|35||1 day Kathmandu|
4 nights in Kathmandu hotel with breakfast
1 cook and his cooks helpers
1 altitude sherpa with equipment for 2 climbers
Certec hyper bar cabinet
A satellite phone
The return flight Kathmandu-Tumlingtar
Carrying loads to the CB with the Carriers
Food during the tour and all the kitchen equipment as well as chairs, table, etc. Food in altitude camps.
Gas in the high altitude camps
1 sirdar who is one of the altitude Sherpas
Equipment in fixed ropes, snow piles, etc.
The tents of the base camp (Ref Force 3/4 places for 2 climbers) and altitude camps (North Face). Mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet
Insurance for the Nepalese team
The royalties of the summit and access trek. “Deposit Garbage” supported by the agency.
The Liaison Officer and his equipment
End of experience pot taken together in Kathmandu
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
Personal insurance Repatriation assistance
Your mountain gear (harness, crampons, sleeping bags, etc.) Race food
Extra Sherpa see HERE under “Expedition prices”
Airport taxes and visas
Telephone, walkie-talkie, alcoholic drinks and soda
The plane A / R Paris