Difficulty Level : 1
Group Size :
Maximum Altitude :
The Makalu 1 is one of the “big and prestigious” peaks of more than 8000 m.
It is a “big piece” at 8463 m. It is located east of Everest.
Access is from Tumlingtar Airport. It takes 11 days of walking to reach the base camp located at 5400 m.
5 camps of altitude are necessary for the ascent. Once well acclimatized to altitude, camp 1 at 5900 m can serve as an advanced base camp to avoid the long distance between base camp and C1.
The last camp C5 is about 7900 m.
Thanks to François Marsigny for his photos taken during the ascent of Makalu in the spring of 2008 without oxygen.
The ascension of Makalu like that of Everest is done more and more in the spring. The monsoon in recent years extends after mid-September until early October making the approach difficult because of the rain and the dangerous rise due to large amounts of snow.
Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy with the expedition led by Jean Franco were the first at the summit of Makalu on May 15, 1955. Franco and the other members of the expedition will be the next day at the summit.
Base camp at 5400 m.
C1 base camp advanced to 5800 m . Once acclimated to the CB it is interesting to make an advanced CB because the journey from the CB is long. Another advantage of advanced CB is that you can see the entire route to C3. The advanced CB is on a rock platform.
C2 at 6300 m . From the advanced CB we go up the glacier quite flat until a serac that requires the installation of ropes fixed on 50 m. Then the climb to C2 is done on the glacier without difficulty. Some crevasses big enough but very visible.
C3 to 6700 m If the conditions of stability of the snow are good it is necessary to make a camp C3 towards 6700 m. The problem is that this whole area is avalanche. Beware of crevasses from C3.
C4 at 7300 m. The C4 is at Makalu La. The climb to the neck of Makalu The 7300 m is on slopes between 35 ° and 45 ° with a mixed part equipped with fixed ropes. The camp is installed at the pass about 7300 m with a view of Everest and the entire course that awaits us for the future. This place can be very windy.
The C5 is installed around 7900 m . The climb to C5 is in large slopes not very steep. But the altitude is there.
Departure in very cold weather towards camp 5 around 7900 m.
Camp 5 is located just behind the snow ridge in front of the Makalu summit in the photo.
|DAY||MAKALU EXPEDITION 1||DURATION||ALTITUDE|
|1||arrival Kathmandu hotel transfer|
|2||a day in Kathmandu|
|3||Tumlingtar flight direction||500m|
|4||Khadbhar||4 hours||1000 m|
|8||Tashi Gaon||5 hours||2000m|
|11||Nhe Kharka||6 hours||3000m|
|13||Makalu Base Camp Hilary||5 hours||4800m|
|14||Hilary base camp rest||4 hours||5200m|
|15||Makalu Base Camp||7 hours||5400m|
|16||Acclimatization BC Makalu||5400 m|
|17 to 42||climbing period|
|50||1 day Kathmandu|
4 nights in Kathmandu hotel with breakfast
1cook and his cooks helpers
1 altitude sherpa with equipment for 2 climbers
Certec hyper bar cabinet
A satellite phone
The return flight Kathmandu-Tumlingtar
Carrying loads to the CB with the Carriers
Food during the tour and all the kitchen equipment as well as chairs, table, etc. Food in altitude camps.
Gas in the high altitude camps
1 sirdar who is one of the altitude Sherpas
Equipment in fixed ropes, snow piles, etc.
The tents of the base camp (Ref Force 3/4 places for 2 climbers) and altitude camps (North Face). Mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet
Insurance for the Nepalese team
The royalties of the summit and access trek. “Deposit Garbage” supported by the agency.
The Liaison Officer and his equipment
End of experience pot taken together in Kathmandu
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
Personal insurance Repatriation assistance
Your mountain gear (harness, crampons, sleeping bags, etc.) Race food
Extra Sherpa see HERE under “Expedition prices”
Airport taxes and visas
Telephone, walkie-talkie, alcoholic drinks and soda
The plane A / R Paris