Duration : 36 days
Difficulty Level : 5
Group Size : 2 to 12
Maximum Altitude : 7678 m
The Makalu 2 is a 7000 m “span”. 4 camps of altitude are necessary and the camp 4 is installed at 7300 m with the neck of Makalu. Until camp C4 the route is the same as that of the ascent of Makalu. From C4 to 7300m in one day we reach the summit of Makalu 2 at 7678 m. The duration of this expedition is 36 days. It is longer than for the others 7000 m because the last camp is at 7300 m at the altitude of the summit of “classics 7000.” This expedition in its logistics is closer to a peak of 8000 m (3 or 4 camp altitude and last camp at 7300 m.)
Makalu 2 brings a very good experience before climbing a summit of 8000 m. In recent years the rise of Makalu 2 as that of Makalu 1 is often climbed in the spring. Indeed, we can see that the monsoon that used to end at the beginning of September has a tendency nowadays to extend until the end of September or beginning of October, making, on the one hand, the difficult approach and on the other hand bringing bad conditions at altitude.
More generally, all areas of eastern Nepal (from Everest to Kangchenjunga) are becoming more accessible for spring expeditions. Moreover, today, Nepal’s ascent of Everest is almost entirely in the spring. Finally, the track from Tumlingtar can go to Num in 4×4. But impossible to predict if this will be possible because when it rains it is not generally possible.
Makalu 2 Camps
The base camp is located at 5400 m.
C1 or advanced base camp at 5800 m.
- It may be wise to install an advanced base camp at 5800 m.
- This camp located at the start of the glacier avoids the long walk from the BC.
Camp 2 at 6300 m.
- From C1 we go up the glacier which is flat at the beginning. Then one passes a small wall of ice about 40 m to take foot on the glacier which leads to C2.
Camp 3 to 6700 m.
- The location of Camp 3 is a problem if the conditions not good. Indeed, flows can be triggered in the corridor of Makalu La.
- But not doing it imposes a too long step to climb to the C4.
- Plus, it’s really not great for acclimation.
- Between C2 and C3 presence of crevices.
Camp 4 at 7300 m.
- The climb to C4 since C3 is done in mixed. In Makalu, The c. 7300 m is camp 4.
- From C3 and before the corridor descending from Makalu there is the presence of large crevasses.
- Camp 4 is at the Makalu pass at 7300 m.
- It is a very windy and cold place. The climb to camp 4 is done first on slopes of snow to then arrive in a mixed corridor that leads to camp 4.
- 36 days
- April May and September-mid October
- Max altitude: 7678 m
|DAY||MAKALU EXPEDITION 2||DURATION||ALTITUDE|
|1||arrival Kathmandu hotel transfer|
|2||a day in Kathmandu|
|3||Tumlingtar flight direction||500m|
|4||Khadbhar||4 hours||1000 m|
|8||Tashi Gaon||5 hours||2000m|
|11||Nhe Kharka||6 hours||3000m|
|13||Makalu Base Camp Hilary||5 hours||4800m|
|14||Hilary base camp rest||4 hours||5200m|
|15||Makalu Base Camp||7 hours||5400m|
|16||Acclimatization BC Makalu||5400 m|
|17 to 27||climbing period|
|35||1 day Kathmandu|
- 4 nights in Kathmandu hotel with breakfast
- 1 cook and his helpers
- 1 altitude sherpa with equipment for 2 climbers
- Certec hyper bar cabinet
- A satellite phone
- The return flight Kathmandu-Tumlingtar
- Carrying loads to the CB with the Carriers
- Food during the tour and all the kitchen equipment as well as chairs, table, etc. Food in altitude camps.
- Gas in the high altitude camps
- 1 Sirdar who is one of the altitude Sherpas
- Solar panels
- Equipment in fixed ropes, snow piles, etc.
- The tents of the base camp (Ref Force 3/4 places for 2 climbers) and altitude camps (North Face). Mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet
- Insurance for the Nepalese team
- Hotel-airport transportation
- The royalties of the summit and access trek. “Deposit Garbage” supported by the agency.
- The Liaison Officer and his equipment
- End of experience pot taken together in Kathmandu
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
- Personal insurance Repatriation assistance
- Your mountain gear (harness, crampons, sleeping bags, etc.) Race food
- Sherpas tips
- Airport taxes and visas
- Telephone, walkie-talkie, alcoholic drinks and soda
- The plane A / R Paris